When I took delivery of my original Raspberry Pi (Model B) the board arrived packed in a sturdy plastic case, not unlike an audio or DAT cassette box (a reference which instantly shows my age…)
In contrast, the Pi 2 arrived in a flimsy cardboard box, with absolutely no crumple protection.
My first Pi 2 actually had to be returned as there was damage to the relatively fragile board. This raised questions in my mind regarding the robustness of the unit, and best practices for general usage and handling.
Some of the topics I’ll be covering in this and the next post are:
- Hardware damage vs ‘soft’ damage (configuration errors and data corruption)
- Power supply and usb cable quality
- Power supply voltage, amperage, and order of connection to the Pi
- The importance of a 2amp Psu when attaching peripherals via Usb
- Usb cable quality technicalities: 2828 AWG vs 2824 AWG grades
- General handling of the Pi, electrostatic discharge, and using an enclosure
- Best pratices for connection and disconnection of peripherals
- Pi shutdown and SD card handling
It is important to note that the Raspberry Pi was designed from the outset to be a system for learning about all aspects of computing; as such it doesn’t come housed in a bullet-proof case, it doesn’t come with a power supply that is guaranteed to work, nor does it come with a compatible SD card (which acts as the system’s hard disk, or more accurately, like a contemporary desktop or laptop’s SSD).
Like all consumer grade electronics, it is possible to physically break the Raspberry Pi, and to do so in a manner in which the damage is impossible to discern (such as by electrostatic discharge).
It is much more likely, however, that any damage the Pi suffers is in the form of corrupted configuration or data files (which can be resolved by restoring from a backup – not a problem as everybody takes regular backups of their system… don’t they?). I’ll be covering problems caused by configuration errors and data corruption in a later post